Cobblestone Roads & Sections – How to paint.


I recently acquired some Frontline Games Cobblestone Roads & Square sections, they are made of a flexible & soft PVC so you can easily lay them over hills and depressions on your game table no problem and they will conform to them. Here is what I got:

  • A pack of Cobblestone Roads which comes with five 2 foot x 4 inch sections
  • A pack of 8 inch Cobblestone square sections which comes with two pieces
  • A pack of 12 inch Cobblestone square sections which comes with two pieces

You can check them out here for pricing which is very reasonable.

They come with a set of instructions.FAQ and I would advise reading that before painting and so on. Now what I did is I picked up (as suggested) the following items and from everyone’s favorite store (because it was cheap) – Walmart:

1 Bottle of Apple Barrel 20404E Black
1 Bottle of Apple Barrel 20103E White
1 Bottle of Apple Barrel 20524 Golden Brown
1 Bottle of Rubbing Alcohol
1 disposable cup (already had)
1 Chip brush

I bought the larger paint bottles but if you are only doing a few the smaller ones will do, but all of this will cost you about $5.00 – if that.

I mixed 1 part black paint and 2/3 parts rubbing alcohol, you can thin this out as much as you want, what the rubbing alcohol does is lowers and thins out the paints surface tension so it acts more like a stain. I laid out my road sections and just began to brush on the black stain mixture.

As you should be able to see in the picture, the black stain mixture runs in to all of the cracks and crevasses of the Cobblestone road sections. I continued this until it was done.


Next I repeated the same steps as above after the roads dried (and they did very quickly here but it was warm outside). I dabbled the brown ink mixture in various places to simulate mud. Let this dry thoroughly before going to the next step or you will end up with muddy white 🙂


The final step was to dry brush white very lightly just to add dept and above is the result, you can see the subtle brown and black in the cracks/crevasses.


Here is a quick shot of the roads/sections surrounding my WIP cottage, I really like these and think they add a lot to the table top. Next I will cover how I made the angled Road sections as seen below. So check back here, I will add a link once I have it complete 🙂

Hope this was helpful – enjoy!

 

Frontline Games: “The Bocage” Hedgerow Set – A closer look and building/painting tutorial.

THE BOCAGE – A closer look

The Bocage Hedgerow sets from Frontline Games were re-released last year (November, 2016) with a lot more detail, so first lets share some photos of the new items that are available. Made of a Polyurethane, so very durable and highly detailed, lets have a look:

(Click pictures to see larger images)


Here are some close-up shots of the straight sections with fallen trees/logs and rock/dirt which has been dug up and pushed into mounds in the edges of farm land for generations.

The sections are approx. 5″ x 1.5″ and come in various inserts for trees and such with exposed roots on many.

What is nice about these is that because of the casting, all of the work has been done for you, and it is solid. All you have to do is paint it (which is actually quite simple) and that will be covered shortly.


Also introduced with the Bocage Hedgerow sets are several specialty sections. Here is a  5″ x 5″ gun emplacement which has been dug into the hedgerow section (and then reinforced with wooden planks) to ambush enemy tanks/units as they approach! The embankments have been reinforced with planks, and a small depression is left for guns to insert their barrels through.


The Light Machine Gun Emplacement, which is meant to have two miniatures mounted on 25mm bases to fit perfectly. There is also included (not in picture) a rear base that connects to the Light Machine Gun Emplacement section (a flat section about an inch wide, pictured later) and ammo cans for LMGs so you can add further detail, which is cool.


This is the front of the L.M.G. Emplacement section.


The M.M.G./Light Gun Emplacement (5″ x 3.5″), which also includes a rear base and ammo cans (again not shown in the above picture, but later) for the M.M.G. This section is also designed to have the Machine Gun nest #401015 slide right into it (as seen in the next picture) or an M.M.G. mounted on a large round base.


A rear shot of the The M.M.G./Light Gun Emplacement 5″ x 3.5″ which also includes a rear base (not in photo) and ammo cans.

This is showing the M.M.G./Light Gun Emplacement with the Machine Gun Pit inserted (#401015 – sold separately). The rear base in the photo is smaller. The actual rear base is as wide as the section itself (shown later).
There is also a gate section that we will show later in the post with a separate gate which can be magnetized to open and close.

These are the ammo crates/cans/bucket which will vary, but will be included with the various emplacements. These are neat because they really add character to the models.

Building/Painting the Bocage Hedgerow set by Frontline Games.
First part – Base coat paint and staining:


Here is the product I used to paint the Bocage Hedgerow sections – all from Walmart:

  • Apple Barrel 2620E Pewter Gray Acrylic Paint – Large bottle – $2.00 (they have a smaller bottle for 50 cents, but I bought the larger ones because I plan to paint a lot more of these).
  • Apple Barrel 20512E Burnt Umber Acrylic (water-based) paint – Small bottle – $.50
  • Rust-Oleum Camouflage 2x Ultra-Cover 279180 “Sand” Spray paint – $3.80
  • Rubbing Alcohol – $1.80
  • Not shown – seal your newly painted Bocage sections with a matte finish clear coat.
First, clean any flash and then wash them with warm soapy water and then let them thoroughly dry before painting (the water will interfere with the paint if not thoroughly dry.
*Note that at this point after cleaning and before washing you are going to want to drill out your holes for the trees that were included. All I did was match up a drill bit that was the size in width of the peg at the bottom of the trees and then slowly drilled out the holes in all of the tree spots located on some of the Hedgerow sections. This will also allow you to remove the trees for easier storing later.
After that, I sprayed all of the sections with with Rust-Oleum’s Camouflage “sand” spray paint. This paint goes on very nice and flat. Let dry thoroughly. Now you really start to see the detail. (Note the holes drilled out in the tree spots on the various sections.)
I then mixed 1 part Apple Barrel acrylic paint in “Burnt Umber” (which is a very dark brown) and 5 parts isopropyl “Rubbing Alcohol” to create a wash. You can mix as you desire to darken or lighten the wash. I then dabbled it onto each section and then let thoroughly dry.
Just dabble it on liberally to get into all of the cracks andcrevasses. I used a chip brush, but any large paint brush will do. This really brings out the detail even more! You can add more paint to darken the stain or dabble more stain on them after the first coat dries – it is up to you.
It was asked: “So you mix rubbing alcohol with paint to create a wash? Why not just water?
This is why – Alcohol has a lower surface tension, so it flows into all of the cracks/crevasses and it drys by evaporation so leaves the paint/color much more crisp/solid on the finished item, acting more like a “stain” than a “wash.”

Second part – Painting the Bocage Hedgerow sections

Now I used the Apple Barrel “Pewter Grey” to paint the stones, diluted it with rubbing alcohol 2 to 1, and again began to dabble the paint in the areas – note a lot of the top of the hedgerow sections are going to be covered up with bushes, so depending on how much of that is going to be exposed will determine how much you may want to paint of that area – just a thought. I used a very dark brown diluted (just like the stones) 1 to 1 to paint the fallen branches on the Hedgerow sections. Here are some photos of the progression so far (next is tree armatures and adding flock) – enjoy!



Above, Large Gun Emplacement – front and back
with stones painted

Above, L.M.G. Emplacement – front and back.
Above, M.M.G. Emplacement – front
Above, various straight sections. The places where there are holes is where the trees will be added. Note the overgrown roots!

Above, these are the “rockier” sections..


Above, first two corner sections.


Above, second two “rockier” corner sections.

Above, the gate section. The gate has been magnetized so it can be open or closed. You don’t have to do this, but I thought it would be cool to have the gate section magnetized. So what I did was glued a small nail/brad on the gate section by clipping the head of the nail/brad and drilling a small hole right next to the gate-post and then inserted/glued into place and then glued a small earth magnet on the bottom of the gate and Voila! I had a gate that could open and close. If you do choose to do this, it would best be done before you begin to paint.

Third part – Adding flock and bushes to your Bocage Hedgerow sections.


The final stages to your Bocage Hedgerow sections is to paint the extra details such as your slat boards in the various emplacements sections and any other detail you would like to add. Once the painting is done let thoroughly dry.


Next adding flock to your Bocage Hedgerow sections. Mix 1 part PVA (Elmer’s glue) and 1 part water. This is how you apply your flocking to various places on your hedgerow sections. Dabble the glue onto any place you wish to add your flock and then sprinkle the flock onto those places. You don’t need much as the stained sections look great bare, but apply to your own taste. Once complete, let dry, and at this point seal with a clear Matt spray. I used Krylon’s Matt Clear Spray.


Adding your bushes – Once completely dry, I used instant glue (which I bought at Walmart – 4 tubes for about $1.00, so 25 cents a tube). I picked a piece of the cluster foliage, and when I got the shape I wanted, I dripped some instant glue onto the place and at the bottom of the foliage and held until it was firmly in place, which only took about 30 seconds. I did this until it was complete.

Forth part – Adding your trees.

Using the tree armatures we are making the trees that come with the Bocage sets.What you are going to need:

  • Tree armatures (come with the set)
  • Steel wool (come with the set)
  • Any dark brown spray paint
  • Any super hold hair spray
  • Green flock (some comes with the set but I would suggest getting more from a local hobby store)

Wrap the tree armatures with steel-wool, then spray them with a dark brown paint and immediately sprinkle green flock on them. Let them dry, and then spray with hairspray. Then again let them dry thoroughly, and they will be ready for your hedgerow sections that require trees to complete.


Locate tree armature. spread out your steel-wool to be wrapped around your armature, then wrap the tree armature in your desired shape (this will be the shape of your tree)…


I used Rust-Oleum purchased from Walmart. This paint covers very well. “Satin Expresso” is the paint color I used, although any dark brown will do. Spray the tree armature with steel-wool wrap, and then quickly sprinkle the flock onto the armature. Use something like a shoe box to catch the extra particles so you can use them again. Once dry, spray a liberal amount of hairspray onto the tree armature and let dry thoroughly. It is amazing how the hairspray holds the flock so wonderfully well 🙂


I used a foam board with holes in it to push the trees into to let dry. Once your trees are dry, you can insert them into the holes and your Bocage is ready for play! Here are some samples of painted Bocage Hedgerow sections:

They were a lot of fun to build and add a lot of character to your game table. I have seen homemade hedgerow sections that look nice but have no where near the detail that these have, so well worth it to me.


I picked up some plastic storage containers from IKEA and store my sections/trees in those on a shelf with less than a 10″ x 12″ x 10″ foot print!

Enjoy!

WIP – 28mm American Civil War

Well I recently came into a lot of 28mm ACW miniatures and was trying to figure out how to base them. I was going to get washers and mount them on magnetic sheets but quickly decided against that as the price of Zinc has driven up the cost of washers which use to cost 2 – 3 cents is now 10 – 11 cents a washer (for the small ones) and I have a lot of miniatures to mount!

I have a friend who keeps telling me to mount them on pennies, so I thought what if I could make a base with indentions that fit the pennies and act like movement trays, it would also allow me to switch out miniatures for different size units and I could make the trays for different unit types.

So I began the trek of trying to figure this out, a while later and some failed attempts, I completed a master and had it made into a master-mold so they could be reproduced in resin and here they are. The ones I have now are 8 miniatures to a base but I am in the process of making 4 base trays. This will allow me to base my models as singles and units, so I can play skirmish games and large unit action.

Below shows you how the miniatures fit right into the holes, I will be painting each base and adding flock and grass and such, they were headache to make but I like the way they came out so far:

This will also allow me to use boxes and store these miniatures, I am thinking of Pizza type boxes and just sitting the bases with the miniatures right in them so they wont tumble around.

I will be using a system called Advance the Colors, I was given a copy many years ago by a fella at a Con when he was developing it and it is Regiment to Regiment action, I always liked the mechanics of the game. I may also dust of my 20 plus year old Johnny Reb and play it as the new basing system will allow for both.

Now I have a lot of painting to do 🙂

Warlord

The Battle at the Stalingrad Tractor Factory!

Well here are a few teaser photos of the game we ran at MillCon this year, it was a lot of fun! Had about 14 participants.


Russian forces stream out against a curtain of German fire power, still they push on!


For Stalin for the Motherland!


Russian troops moving onto the ruined building which are held by German troops.

Forward!

You can see more photos here:
Frontline Command forum article

Warlord

W.I.P. 28mm Stalingrad Tractor Factory PT.2 (Complete)

Well here it is, it is complete. The buildingd were placed on a gray cloth matt so they would not slide around while the game was going on. Painting the factory, we used the technique from the
PMD site. Insted of using their windows though, I made a grid pattern on my computer and then had a copy place copy them on clear paper and I cut those out and glued them into the window sections, even cut some out like the were broken, at any case have a look below at the results.


The Factory complete table


Lots of seperate rubble sections were added through the board. Wrecked autos and such and even sections of equipment and factory supplies.


The internal sections for the builings were mounted on bases so they could be taken out and switched around also, it also added flavor and saw conflicts with in builings as troops were hiding around crates and barrel and such during fire fights.

It was a lot of fun to build and a blast to play on, thanks for having a look!

Warlord

W.I.P. Autos for the 28mm Stalingrad Tractor Factory

Here is a quick post concerning the Automobiles for the City/ Factory board. I decided to mount them on small basses so the could have the rubble modeled on them. The brick rubble is from PMDs City block series. They were primed black and then painted from there. I researched the time and found the colors that were used for Autos then.

These were a lot of fun to do, each base was a miniature dirama for the table, it does limit where you place them on the table depending on the items on the base but they dont get moved around druing game play by players trying to make room and such and really adds to the theme of the board. I later removed the lamp post from the one auto so I could have more options where to place it.

A interesting note, I used floor tile for the bases because they are nice and thin, already have a texture on them and the dont warp.

Warlord

W.I.P. 28mm Stalingrad Tractor Factory PT.1

Here are some photos of Stalingrad Tractor factory work in progress (the city block will be at the end of the table adjacent the Factory) which is a pre cursor for the Factory. You can see that here –. When complete the table will fill a 8×5 foot table. All the kits are from Precision Model Designs (PMD) which can be purchased from Battlemart

I did some things different such as using different bases and adding walls, I picked up some 2×4 1/8″ particle board sheets and quarter inch MDF (Medium density fiber board) from local DIY (Do it yourself) store Home Depot. I cut the MDF boards into 5×10 and 10×10 inch sections and then etched a 2″ squared pattern into each one and sanded it to simulate cement slab squares. The particle board was used to add further walls to buildings so they would be bigger, for instances I used the resin walls on one side of the buildings or either top or bottom and then added the resin walls so some of the buildings are a combo of resin/particle board walls.


The photo above I actually etched a 1″ square pattern into the MDF floor, then added the resin walls on 2 sides and particle board walls on the other sides. The piping is actually Balloon straws which were cut to fit and then added to the bricked columns (which are from the PMD City wall set) I wrapped the pipes with a tape (dropped a drop of instant glue on to it so it would stay.) so when painted they look like they were wrapped with metal bands.


Here are other shots of the same building but with the large piping added to it which is from Home Depot also, added a brick stove, cut out a section of the cement floor and other small details. I also ran a wooden beam across the seam of the resin wall to hide the seam and to maybe add a floor later for the windows above.

Here is the building just about complete with holes cut into the walls, rubble on the floors, and added some loose bricks on the pipes to show that rubble had fell from above also. The rubble piles also had metal beams added to them for the “Factory feel”. Those are from PMDs Metal beams and barrels set and bricked rubble piles set.


Shots of the blown holes in the walls to the building.


These are the pipes coming out of the buildings. I cut up an old model railroad bridge to get the gantries for the pipes. The pipes are regular PVC pipe from Home Depot just cut to fit with a pipe cutter tool. These are on 10×10 inch etched MDF boards and mounted to line up with each other so they are modular sections. This model is 10 inches by 50 inches when complete in 5 parts.


These are the Generator building and furnace buildings from PMD (http://www.precisionmodeldesigns.com/timeless-models.html – the Modular Factory Series) which again I added extra walls to by cutting Particle board to fit that adding a texture to it so it looked like covered brick. The containers came from some old model train pieces, I used the PMF Pipes and Gantries piping to add the pipe work to it.


This is a few of the PMD Warehouse Distribution building kits (here is a picture of it as it comes (http://www.battlemart.com/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=2874) I placed the on 10×10 inch boards back to back, and used a building on the front from the PMD sheds kit to extend the front part of the building.


This is the end section of the pipes boards which ends into a bricked building, I also placed the “Elbow” sections in the building (which you cant see in these pictures) which line up with the rest of the pipes. After the building wad built (which was made with the walls from the Warehouse Distribution building kit), I used wood putty and a brush to cover the seams and add like a stucco pattern by wetting the brust and dappling the applyed areas.

I tried to add a lot of detail to each board so they were unique yet part of a larger structure. Meant to get these up a long time ago but had to get it finished for a big game – More to come soon concerning painting, adding autos and so on.

Warlord

The question of scale for W.W. II 28mm Gaming…

**********************First part of article***********************
Hello fellow tread heads!

I prefer 1/50th (1/48th) scale, I seen many of the 1/56th scale models and although beautiful they look WAY to small to me – allow me to explain.

We had a modeling pro come in a few years ago and gave us his assessment, at first he kept saying “I don’t know, something is not right with these little guys” he took some with him to paint and look over.

He returned after about a week and claimed he had figured out what the problem was. In his looking them over he began to explain that it was not the vehicles but the miniatures that were the problem (needless to say that went over like a rock – I mean everyone in the room except for him has invested a lot into the 28mm minis) – he further explained that their proportions are way off. You would have to re do the miniatures to fit any one of the vehicles scales.

In short his conclusion for us was that the models in height are 28mm – 1/56th scale but that is where it ends.

The models girth (thickness) and the weapons and equipment are along the lines of 1/48th. This is why when you see these models inside the smaller (1/56th scale for example) vehicles they look crammed in – because the miniatures is actually about twice the normal thickness he should be – large head, huge hands, thick torso, and so on.

For the height issue there were other factors that aided us make the choice of which scale to use – most models are cast with a base attached to the feet which further adds to the height, and then most of us war-gamers add a miniature base also. Once this is done your model is in actuality 1/48 – 1/50th scale – in height – as far as we were concerned this has to be included because the miniatures will be based in some way, shape or form.

When modeling, modelers tend to place the models on the same level on a base (Dioramas and such) however their models are in proportion to one another, if you did this with these miniatures they would look way to small next to 1/50th and way to chunky/ large next to 1/56th scale vehicles.

Because of this information we went with 1/48th – 1/50th because when the models are added to bases they are in height and girth more in proportion with those vehicles.

***SECOND PART OF THE ARTICLE**************************

Let’s have a closer look at this and further explain:

Your choice of scale is a personal choice – what looks good to you. However as said before the problem lays with the miniatures them selves, not the vehicles because they are “true to their scale”. No one argues that a 1/48th, 1/50th, or a 1/56th is in proportions true to the scale it is representing even they tend to contract or expand slightly depending on the maker also but not by much .

I have found modelers have a more objective approach to this debate because they work with much truer proportions than we gamers do, have a look at this site where a modeler (not a gamer) is baffled by the 28mm miniature:

28mm “Scale” Applied to Vehicle Models as Imagined by Me

It really does come down to what you are use to seeing.

Here as someone mentioned so wisely – a real photo for comparison. U.S. infantry next to a Sherman tank:

Please note there are approximately 8 infantrymen walking next to the Sherman tank and with PLENTY of room to spare. Note the height of the men next to the vehicle.

Here is a photo of a similar setting however with a 1/50th Sherman and 28mm men on bases.

This vehicle barely has 4 models beside it and even though the height is correct the girth is not, the 28mm models are about 2 plus sizes too chunky. Note the model on the end is a Tamiya 1/48th miniature and not a 28mm war gaming miniature – and again note the proportions.

Here is a 1/56th scale sherman with 28mm models…


These photos with an even smaller vehicle (1/56th) and compare the the photo of the actual WWII photo. In addition the Sherman is mounted on a base which really makes the girth of the 28mm models stand out – they are simply too small.
Try to imagine the vehicles that are suppose to be able to accommodate 10 – 12 models such as the 251 Hanomag or the U.S. M3 Half tracks in either scale.

Here is a shot of a 1/48th Tamiya U.S. Infantryman holding a B.A.R and a 28mm U.S. infantryman holding a Carbine:

See how the girth compares with each other? And when next to each other the 28mm miniatures look VERY odd. Once again it is because the 28mm model is not proportioned properly as a man would be. In addition the proportions transfer to the equipment the model is holding, the carbine is almost as big as the B.A.R. and the ammo pouches, packs and so on – have all increased in size.

This is some of the research we had received and thus went to the larger scale of 1/50th, for us the added cast base on the model and the added 25mm base in addition to the girth greatly increases the size of the 28mm model to the point that this was a better “fit“- but by no means the best. It was the opinion of the researchers that the only way it will ever be “made right” is to correct the 28mm model (which also varies greatly in scale – 25mm – 33mm) and I don’t believe that is ever going to happen due to the enormity of the ranges in the industry.

I agree 100 percent that the choice is up to the individual – after all the models are yours and I have to say I really love the 28mm models as I have had collections since I was a child.

However I will say know your facts and the fact is there is no 28mm vehicle line out there (unless you want on that looks like the one in the link above). We do believe though that the better fit is the 1/48th – 1/50th scaled vehicles.

Just wanted to show why we choose to go in the direction we did.
****************END*********************

Very simple and powerful – I like it 🙂

****************I have added this bit of information*******************

I have added this bit of information due to comments made, here is the response:

Hmmmm. OK, I’ll agree with you to an extent. However, that said- the point about the girth being off is not proved by your pictures.

Hmmmmm, well I believe these pictures speak a thousand words and are most definitely a show of the girth of the models being a huge problem. They stand as what they are; however here is more for you:

You have on your article a grayed out German soldier, if the 28mm miniatures looked more like the grayed out German soldier than you would be spot on, however we both know they don’t so I have added a 28mm grayed out to your graph and you can see the stark contrast. In addition I have taken the soldier in your half track photo and added him to your graph grayed out. It is clear that the 2 end grayed out figures have much more in common than the 28mm model in the middle.

So unless you are speaking of properly proportioned 28mm miniatures, it renders the article moot. Here is a photo of a 1/48th, 28mm and a real man together standing next to each other and compare them. Clearly the 1/48th model is much closer than the 28mm miniature and it further shows the exaggerated features of the 28mm model.

The bases spread the figures out much more than the real ones- if you were to have the figures standing purely on their integral cast bases, they’d be a lot closer together. Another factor to consider is the choice of poses, particularly in the picture with the 1:56th tank- you’ve chosen figures that are *extremely* “wide” in their poses, so they will obviously not fit in. The fact that they are on 30mm-wide bases doesn’t help much either.

In war gaming the bases are the AOO (Area of Operation) so you have standard base sizes for different size models and in the industry 25mm bases are such for a human size miniature. However once again let’s take your point and put it to the test. I have grayed out a 1/50th scale Sherman and placed several 28mm miniatures in from of it and they don’t come close to the actual real photo of real men walking along side it:


1/50th scale Sherman

This photo below is of a 1/56th scale Sherman, a clear difference in the 2 pictures – no need for words – compare this to the real photo.

1/56th scale Sherman

I’ve put my thoughts on the whole thing together at http://mainly28s.com/how_to/measuring_scale.html

I have read your write up and I do not see at any point that you address the girth of the 28mm miniature, in addition the models in question are on a integral base and then in most cases based again which also should be addressed. I do like your presentation though – well written but for me not complete.

This is the most compelling research I have even seen, how brilliant to ask modelers and come from a modelers point of view.

I do agree with the fact that it is up to the individual, but once again given the information I will go with 1/50th scale vehicles! What ever you pick just have fun with it 🙂

W.I.P. CYBER ORCS!

For the new SciFi game coming you can use any model for it, each race has classifications that they go into such as troop type, armor type, and so on. you pay the points for it and field it. Because of this I have been collecting a lot of different SciFi type of models.

The RAFM Cyber orcs are great models and I have had a few sitting around for a while now so they are perfect 🙂

I really like the Orcs as a whole but I like the old idea of them being a more brutish society.

Here are some pictures of some Cyber orcs I have been playing with and converting.

I started with these guys a LONG time ago and have now decided that I like the original heads better, before I was replacing them with the GW heads for Warhammer 40K. Most of the ones you see will have the original heads cut of but I have others and will be leaving them as they are.

Because I had already removed the heads a while ago, I had to add some to these models so went with the GW ones, I may change them still as I am not sure how I like them yet. these models are in the beginning stages of being painted. I cut some of the ears off the heads to give them a more sinister look.

Here are some pics…






Here are my heavy weapon cybers and one is a moving heavy laser platform with a controller – I love this model! I can just see one of the orcs convincing another to be a heavy gun platform and the smarter one telling him “O.K. a little to the left, now hold…” as he pushes the button to fire.

These are the heavies, I think the next time I will bend the legs and arms to make them more animated as they are done in the older way of being more stiff (these models are about 15 years old). I love the tracked feet though 🙂


These miniatures are the converted from GWs old Eavy armor models, I wanted to have them a little sleeker than being so GW ORKY so I made a helmet for them and a large chain gun for a different feel!

These models would be clasified as Extra heavys in the game.




I posted these pictures because a fellow TMPer was asking about Space Orcs so here they are 🙂

Stay tuned for more to come

Warlord

W.I.P. 28mm City blocks for W.W. II

I have been working on a new project for my 28mm W.W. II game I am planing which will take place in a city, I have numerous propaganda posters and commercial signs and such. I have been trying to get the feel of a city that has been under the stress of battle so have been looking to add wrecked cars and street lamps, sidewalks and such as well as adding other items that would be there that are normally not represented on tabletops. I am still researching W.W. II photos and adding more to it until I am satisfied.

I have taken some photos of some sample scenes before I actually start the gluing, filling and painting, the buildings are the new Precision Model Designs “City block” buildings which are buildings that are made to line up next to each other to form City blocks – very cool by the way – and their new European sidewalk pieces which are all planned to be release soon.

I will be adding rubble and such and PMD has some really nice pieces you can see in the photos. here is the progressed so far, not complete but you get the idea.

The gray matt the city building are on you see in the pictures I have used before as the bases for my city, I am thinking of adding roads to it with bendable rubble with cobblestone imprint so the matt can be folded and put away and pulled back out for easy use. However once I add the roads it kinda places then in a fixed format so not sure I want to got that route yet.

Still working some things out though…

The building with the Balcony and extended stair/ landing I plan to add columns (most likely will be pencils with a carved columns into them) which extend to the ground from the bottom of the balcony.

Above are real autos wrecked/ destroyed in World War II and below are ones I am currently working on…

The Autos are something I have always wanted to do and with the help of some friends it has happened, there will be plenty of these burnt out vehicles to hide behind and fire from when it is finished. The resin bodies and metal fenders and such make so you can bend the fenders up and over to show very realistic wrecks and such. (A big thank you to the guys who made this possible!).

I have also etched into the windshields bullet holes and cracks and such (tried to get the in the photos). One of the trucks I gave 2 flat tires so I have having a lot of fun with these.

The sidewalk sections are nice in the fact they have a lot of detail and are able to be added to the fronts of the buildings to custom fit by cutting them the exact size of the building front width and then I write on the bottom of the sidewalk sections which building it goes to. the curved sidewalk pieces can be added on the ends so the sidewalk goes around the building to end your city block or to extend further out till you decide to end it. They are making more types to accommodate different city walk ways – very nice item to add detail to the city 🙂

Finally here are some shots with the miniatures in and around, I plan to do a lot more work on this and will take more photos as it is being complete.

Thanks for taking a look and stay tuned for more

WARLORD